Copan, Honduras

Tourists in Central & South America should always be prepared for changes to their travel schedules. Our change occurred between Antigua and Honduras where a combination of events saw us too late to reach the Guatemala / Honduras border that closes at 5pm. Travelling in a small minivan, the changes in countryside were quite severe, from tropical orchards to cactus covered desert in the space of less than 1/2 an hour. Because we were late, we chose to stay in a new hotel in a small town near the border. Having traversed a horrendously bumpy and rocky road, we were weary, dusty and thirsty. After a quick few drinks, it was time to try out the showers, 2 to about 20 rooms. Just my luck, in the shower, turn on the water and out go the lights. That was the first time I've ever showered by torchlight, held by a girl in the next door shower. A memorable experience but I probably won't try it again, it can be rather embarrassing trying to dry yourself off. The people in this town are incredibly friendly and happy, it's not often 11 gringos stay for the night and they're keen to talk with us about life "on the outside". With a beautiful and colourful sunset, the night sky appeared, and with it clear view of the shining planet Venus closely followed by a magnificent array of stars. My fellow travellers deserve my apologies for events of that evening. I still don't know why, but I had a severe attack of the munchies. So severe that no dinner plate was safe if they turned their heads for a few seconds. It's amazing the patience and camaraderie that develops between a group of people travelling together as we were.

We left at sunrise the next morning, arriving an hour or so later at the border to be greeted by lazy and bored border guards. A large hammock contained one equally large guard, whilst another practised shooting bottles with his air rifle. The process of negotiating for visas and currency here was much easier than when entering Guatemala, if it wasn't for out insistence our passports wouldn't have been stamped.

At last, we've arrived in Copan after a race with a bareback horse rider (the minivan lost) and head straight for the historical Mayan site here. Copan is thought to have been the cultural centre of the Mayan empire, hosting visiting Mayan leaders from throughout Central America many years ago. The site is very different from those previously visited. The buildings are adorned with even more intricate carvings and a large number of beautifully carved stone statues tell of the Mayan's history. There is still a large amount of restoration and archaeological investigation to be done at Copan, however the work of the last 30 years is magnificent. A wide range of artifacts have already been recovered, much of the jewellery could easily grace the worlds best and most modern jewellery shops. The designs found on the pottery, whilst a little rough in its execution, are also very modern and advanced. Much has been written about Copan and many photographs have been taken. None of this can prepare you for the real thing and whilst our local guide answered many questions, even more questions arose as we stared open mouthed at the craftsmanship and artistry that is Copan.